Yamuna Ghat: Between the Sacred and the Commercial

Yamuna Ghat in New Delhi was an oasis of peace and spirituality for hundreds of years. However, as Michele Rinaldi discovered in a recent visit, its newfound popularity among tourists has created dramatic changes.
travel Jan 17, 2025
A boat rows through the water of Yamuna Ghat, surrounded by seagulls and other migrating birds. This site on the Yamuna River is an oasis in busy New Delhi © Amazing Aerial / Michele Rinaldi
A boat rows through the water of Yamuna Ghat, surrounded by seagulls and other migrating birds. This site on the Yamuna River is an oasis in busy New Delhi. © Amazing Aerial Agency / Michele Rinaldi

By Rebecca Duras

 

Even within the crowded, overwhelming, and thoroughly modern city of New Delhi, one of the world’s biggest metropolises, there are pockets of calm that peep through, such as the Yamuna Ghat. However, the site’s own popularity is threatening to change what makes it special, as our own Michele Rinaldi testifies to its growing commercialization, crowds, and pollution.

Is this a sign of the destruction of Yamuna Ghat, or just a change over time for a place that has already survived for centuries?

 

Finding Community in the River

 A ghat in Hindi is a series of steps that lead down to a river or other body of water from the banks. The city of New Delhi has 32 historic ghats along the Yamuna River, which flows through the city. The ghats can be used for practical reasons, such as getting into the water for bathing, but are also important places for spiritual ritual. For photographer Michele Rinaldi, embarking on the photography trip of his career to India, the spot was a must-visit when he stopped in Delhi. “It has been a subject of fascination for me even before I personally visited,” he says.

The Yamuna Ghat holds particular religious significance because the Yamuna River is an important river-goddess for local Hindus. For the devout, bathing in the river is an important part of performing Hindu rituals such as pujas or aartis. Some ghats are also important cremation sites, such as Raj Ghat, which was where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated.

Birds fly over the Yamuna River in the early dawn light. Besides its spiritual importance, the river is also an important respite for migrating birds © Amazing Aerial Agency / Michele Rinaldi

The importance of the Yamuna Ghat has created a long community on the river. Many of the present buildings date to the late 19th or early 20th century, although the religious significance of the sites is certainly much older. Priests and their families have lived alongside the ghats for generations, ready to perform rituals for believers.

The ghats are also home for animal communities, not just humans. Every winter, thousands of migratory birds descend onto the waters of the Yamuna River by the ghats. The important wetlands habitat provided by the river provides a home for the birds, who find few other places to rest inside the busy city. The pocket of nature and old Delhi history is protected by a 10-foot-high wall, which keeps the noise and (some of) the pollution of the busy city out. Besides creating a peaceful haven for birds, the wall also makes visiting a lot more peaceful. Michele described an atmosphere of peace and calm, hard to find in one of the biggest cities in the world. “You can’t even hear the honking cars,” he says.

 

A Rapidly Changing Place

The beauty of the migrating birds on the river has rapidly attracted nature photographers around the world and featured in global publications such as Smithsonian Magazine.

However, the serene nature photos published elsewhere don’t capture the crowds that have begun to form at Yamuna Ghat. “The spot is always crowded, especially during foggy days, which creates a dramatic atmosphere.” He went with a group of ten photographers, led by experienced local photographer Pankaj Aditya. Even though they went at sunrise, the site was already crowded with other visitors and photographers—nature and travel photographers, but also commercial photographers and couples doing wedding, pre-wedding, and engagement shoots.

The growing popularity of Yamuna Ghat for tourism and photography means that the traditional professions practiced by people living there have changed. “Before my visit, I had hoped to find fishermen at sunrise, but unfortunately those individuals are a tourist trap,” he explained. Many families of priests and fishermen have turned to more lucrative sources of income, such as renting out their boats for boat rides, throwing bird seed into the water to create more dramatic shots for visitors, or hawking snacks and other relevant souvenirs. Amidst the crowds, there are still people praying and performing rituals, although the overall atmosphere is far from serene.

Another change to the Yamuna Ghat is not as visible, but is far more insidious. The Yamuna River is one of the most polluted rivers in the world, in large part thanks to the city of New Delhi itself, whose industrial waste and sewage drains into the river. Large religious festivals such as Chhath Puja ironically contribute to the pollution of the river that plays such an important part of worship due to the crowds they attract, which create more waste. Authorities have issued warnings about the pollution in the river and its floodplains, even banning farming near it due to the pollution, and conduct occasional clean-up efforts. However, the pollution was still visible and tangible when Michele visited. “Along the river, you can see rubbish floating and people bathing in the water,” he says. Although they are aware of pollution warnings, devotees still use the river water in their ablutions.

 

Change, But Not Destruction

Although as photographers we may be tempted to lament the decline of places that looked so beautiful and are now crowded, just because a place is changing does not mean it is necessarily declining.

After visiting Yamuna Ghat, Michele understands why this has become such a popular place for local photographers, even if it may have affected his experience. “It’s one of the few unique photography spots in Delhi. Otherwise, you’d have to venture out of the city, which isn’t always easy,” he explains. For couples looking for a beautiful backdrop for their photoshoots, or for nature photographers that are just starting out but want to practice their craft, it is a beautiful yet accessible place to photograph for those living in New Delhi, who may not have the time or money to take frequent trips outside of the city. The growing popularity of the location has made nature and photography more accessible, and may even aid in preservation efforts for the historic buildings and nature found there.

The locals turning towards tourism instead of retaining their traditional professions of priesthood and fishing may disappoint visitors who are looking for an “authentic” experience, but tourism has provided a vital new source of income for families living in the area. Michele also admits that the tourism professionals in Yamuna Ghat enhance the photography experience. “All the photographers eagerly await the arrival of the first boat [throwing out bird seed] to capture the abundance of birds on the river,” he admits.

Yamuna Ghat may be changing, but as Michele’s photos show, it is still possible to find pockets of serenity and beauty, even as this place becomes more crowded and popular. He made sure to get up early and worked with an expert local photographer to capture the best shots. Although the ghat has become more commercialized, it is still a place for local Hindus to flock to for prayers and rituals, which they perform despite the hustle, bustle, and pollution around them. Despite the changes, the deeply spiritual significance of the Yamuna Ghat shines through, and even in photos it looks spiritual.

As Michele’s photos show, although Yamuna Ghat has changed, it is not destroyed. Perhaps the old world and the new world can coexist.


 

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